We in the U.S. are generally free to express our thoughts without being tossed in prison.  Just look at the proliferation of websites.  You will find websites that put sniper rifle cross hairs on politicians that are being targeted and say let’s “reload” and go get them.  Many partisans have been fired up by posters with captions such as “It’s Open Season” and their opponents filled with bullet holes (artistically rendered bullet holes not real bullet holes) on the poster. 

I do not condone these forms a free speech – I believe they have crossed the line.  But, in general, we have wide latitude as we express our thoughts. 

Sadly, there are many areas in the world where a person has very few freedoms.  The stories of repression, torture and death are invisible because these are the stories the dictators work to hide. 

Recently, our daughter, Jennifer Lynn Bates, decided to put some focus on the plight of those who live under such horrible conditions.  Some of her art was part of an Article 19 Human Rights exhibition this past November.  CLICK HERE to learn more.   Her work was featured at the BECA International Center for Art + Design in Albuquerque, New Mexico.

She also has a website called Name That Dictator with interesting thought-provoking information and art.  Take a look… send her your thoughts.  

(Images in this Post are courtesy of the namethatdictator.com website)

Also… be thankful.  We have many freedoms when it comes to sharing our thoughts.  Please be responsible.

Roman Theater in the center of Amman

A good place to begin a visit of Amman is at the Citadel, a site with an extensive collection of ancient treasures located high atop a hill in the center of the city.  Small caves on the hill provide evidence of the early Neolithic settlers.  The hill was fortified around 1800 BC and the Bible records that King David captured the city in the early 10th century BC.  Uriah the Hittite, husband of King David’s lover Bathsheba, died in combat after the king ordered him to the front line of battle.   

A Muslim couple touring the Citadel

Over the centuries, Amman and the surrounding region was caught in the middle of the power struggles between the East and the West.  A long line of empires claimed the territory including Assyria (8th century BC), followed by Babylonia, Alexander the Great and the Ptolemies, the Seleucids, the Romans and the Byzantines.  For a time, Amman was called “Philadelphia”, named after Ptolemy II Philadelphus.  When Jordan came under Arab rule in the 7th century AD, the Umayyad rulers changed the name back to Amman.   

Temple of Hercules

Remains of a Byzantine Church

The Citadel has many archaeological reminders of the powers that once ruled Jordan.  The Romans built the Temple of Hercules between 162-166 AD.  This temple was larger than any temple in Rome, with massive 33-feet-tall  columns.  Remains from a Byzantine basilica constructed in the 5th century AD are nearby.   

Umayyad governor's palace

After the Muslims conquered the Middle East they constructed the Umayyad governor’s palace (8th century), the domed building in the background, on this hill.  The dome is a modern reconstruction perched on the old structure.  Next to the palace are remains of an early mosque.   

Fragments of the Dead Sea Scrolls

Plaster statues from Ain Ghazal (6500 BC)

Some of the most impressive items are on display in the Jordan Archaeological Museum, a simple building on top of the hill.  It’s amazing collection includes portions of The Dead Sea Scrolls, plaster statues from Ain Ghazal (one of the oldest settlements in the world), Moabite, Ammonite and Nabataean ruins with inscriptions, clothing and chainmail from Muslim warriors, Neolithic pottery, along with Roman and Byzantine relics.   

I have mostly touched on ancient history… but, there is so much more to Amman.  We enjoyed delicious food… the fresh fruit and vegetables grown in the Jordan valley are excellent.  We met lots of friendly people.  We visited with the cooks at breakfast, our drivers, the security detail at the entrance of the hotel, people in the little shops… everywhere we went people were warm and conversational.  Western influence is common in Amman - large signs in the shopping areas promote wedding dresses that resemble the dresses found at U.S. weddings.  Many of the women and girls wear jeans and slacks with colorful tops and their headscarves have evolved into fashionable head coverings.  The longer we were here the more we felt at home.

View of Holy Land from Mt. Nebo

Our first stop was Mt. Nebo, a high spot overlooking the Holy Land.  On a clear day Jerusalem and the West Bank city of Jericho are visible from the summit.  Unfortunately, our day was misty with a bit of drizzle in the air.  According to the Bible, Moses was allowed a view of the Holy Land from here but was not allowed to enter.  Moses was buried somewhere on Mt. Nebo but the actual location is not know.  After Mt. Nebo we continued north to Madaba, an old town dating back to the Neolitihic period.

Madaba is mentioned in the Bible and it also is named in the famous Mesha Stele (the Moabite Stone) that is on display in the Jordan Archaelogical Museum in Amman.  The stone records the achievements of Mesha, King of Moab in the mid-9th century BC, one of which was to retake Madaba from the Israelites.

Greek Orthodox Basilica of Saint George in Madaba

Inside the church at Madaba

Madaba  is well known for its Byzantine and Umayyad mosaics.  The most famous of these wonderful mosaics is the two million piece map of the Holy Land preserved in the floor of the modern Greek Orthodox church of Saint George.  Hundreds of mosaics from the 5th through the 7th centuries are scattered around Madaba.  Most of these were lost until modern times after the Persians sacked the city in 614 AD. 

Mosaic map of the Holy Land

The Madaba Map dates back to the 6th century AD and the colorful stones depict the hills, valleys and towns of Palestine and the Nile Delta.  The mosaic contains the earliest known portrayal Jerusalem during Byzantine times and provides many important details and landmarks that have been confirmed by archaelogical digs including the location of the ancient cardo and the Holy Sepulchre.  This mosaic is a rare masterpiece that is art, archaelogy, history, cartography and a religious artifact all rolled into one.

Working the loom in Madaba

During our short walk through the neighborhood near the church, we passed small shops, restaurants and many locals.  Several of the shops had beautiful rugs hanging in the window.  As it turns out, Madaba has a rich weaving tradition, a craft with a long history among the Bedouins.  We were fortunate enough to visit a shop with a working loom. 

It would have been nice to have more time in this charming old city of mosaics, narrow streets and weaving, but, eventually we said good-bye to Madaba and hit the road.  Wow… what an interesting stop!

The entrance to Petra

We exited the bus and walked down a long narrow gorge just under a mile in length.  The uneven path included many of the paver stones from 2,000 years ago… it snaked between tall cliffs, some towering 250 feet straight up.  Water conduits were carved into the red rock along the path, all part of an elaborate water system that also included dams and cisterns.  As a result, the Nabataeans had an abundance of water in a hot desert.  At the end of the gorge there it stood, the amazing Al Khazneh, Petra’s most famous ruin, also known as “the Treasury”.  

Al Khazneh - also known as The Treasury

By now you are probably saying to yourself, “I have seen this somewhere before.”  You are probably right.  Petra and the Treasury have been in a number of movies, the most famous being Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. 

During Bible days the Horites inhabited this region followed by the Edomites.  Later, the Nabataeans, an Aramaic speaking people, controlled the area as well as caravan trade that passed through here.  With terrain that provided the advantages of a fortress and an ample supply of water, Petra became a wealthy hub of commerce that linked trade routes from India and China with Egypt, Syria, Greece and Rome.  The Petra site was built around 1200 BC and by the 6th century BC the Nabataeans had made this their capital.    

The ampitheater is carved into stone

A beautiful young vendor

Petra lies along the slope of Mount Hor, the area where Aaron of the Bible was buried.  Today, one can find around 800 structures carved into cliffs and the site has been designated an UNESCO World Heritage Site.  As we continued down the trail, off to the left was a large amphitheater carved into the rock at the foot of the mountain called en-Nejr.  The theater was situated so the audience faced a large tomb complex carved into a nearby cliff.  Tourists wandered the trails looking at all this in amazement while a scattering of vendors offered a nice assortment of bargains.  Petra is absolutely remarkable and it is HUGE!  

Main Street in Petra

Urn Tomb

As we walked past the amphitheater the valley opened up dramatically.  Camels lumbered by hauling exhausted tourists up the long trail to the exit.  Their slow gait and calm ways added to the overall atmosphere.  Off in the distance was another mountain with striking rose-colored rock.  And in the broad plain was an expanse of Roman ruins, evidence left by the people who conquered the Nabataeans. 

Roman Ruins in the Distance

Eventually, we had to walk out of this place, an uphill trek that was about 2 miles.  There was so, so much more to see… but, time ran out.  For an avid hiker, there were many miles of rugged trails that passed through these valleys and gorges and led to the top of the surrounding mountains.  Reminders of ancient civilizations were everywhere.  And the raw natural beauty of this place was astounding.